In Ayutthaya, an historic market is revived and promises to preserve the old ways

Beyond the ruins of ancient palaces and temples in Ayutthaya, there's another survivor of the 1767 sack of the Siamese capital by the Burmese army.

In the olden days Dan Khanon was the Kingdom's busiest customhouse and market, with hundreds of traders. But when the city was burnt, the market went into hibernation for more than 200 years.

It reopened in 2006, the brainchild of Ayutthaya-born Napaporn Wetchapuckpitak and friends. Even though the city is full of modern buildings, the market promises to keep alive the old ways of life.

The market's name - Kong Khong - is inspired by the posture of buyers stooping to choose items from a stall.

"I like the old atmosphere and simple lifestyle. Back then, everyone was generous and friendly," says Napaporn.

Situated on 10 rai with a large wooden pavilion covered by a thatched roof, the market is home to hundreds of vendors.

Just desserts

Amid fat pumpkins, lush custard apples, juicy mangoes, spicy curry powders, decorative pottery, wicker baskets and colourful traditional clothing for children, there's the main attraction - rare sweet desserts.

Starting at Bt10, there's ba bin (coconut pancake), kao mao (banana deep fried in a coconut butter) and kanom tuay (rice cup pudding topped with coconut jelly).

Napaporn and her older sister run a candy store, selling treats like they had when they were kids - sour candies, cigarette-like chewing gum and lollipops, as well as games and toys, starting at a mere Bt2.

After a quick foot massage, you might head next door to the new Klong Sa Bua market, which is modelled after the old-time floating markets. The bamboo pavilion is lined with around 50 vendors selling more desserts - bua loy (dumplings in coconut cream), pla kim khai tao (rice noodles in coconut cream), nam khaeng sai (frappe ice) and kao hor bai bua (roasted rice with cereal wrapped with lotus leaves.

 IF YOU GO

>> It's an eight-kilometre drive from Wat Phananchoeng to the Kong Khong Market Baan Saeng Som, located on a narrow road to Bang Pa-in. It's open from 9am to 4pm, Thursday to Sunday and holidays. Call (035) 728 286 or visit www.TalardKong|Khong.com

>> Klong Sa Bua Floating Market is open from 10am to 5pm, Saturday to Sunday and holidays. Call (02) 610 9458 or visit www.AyutthayaFloating|Market.com.

 >> Buses to Ayutthaya leave from Bangkok's Mor Chit terminal. Call (02) 936 2852-66 or see www.Transport.co.th.